Haitian art in Kansas

I recently discovered a gift shop here in Lawrence Kansas that sells Haitian art, and even has a Creole name: Kretyen (it’s next to Pisano’s on 25^th St.). They sell fair trade art, bags, coffee, chocolate, etc. from various countries. The Haitian art is mainly the metal work made out of steel drums. Click for a cool video about how it’s made. And here are some pictures of the metal work I’ve bought in Haiti.

Missionary Barb taught an art class in which I taught about birds in 2009. I met the young man Wilnot who made these paintings. The one on the left is early Wilnot, the one on right is a later piece by him. Barb had to leave Haiti, I don’t know if anyone took over the art class. It was a great way to teach the parts of the birds and for the students (adults and kids) to become really familiar with the different birds.

The University of Kansas Spencer Museum of Art recently acquired Haitian art. I don’t know when it will be exhibited but click here for the 2007 Haitian art exhibit.

Navigating the airports - Part III - the Snack Bars upstairs

This is the final post about the airport in Port-au-Prince. Here's what you’ll find in the American Airlines waiting area at the airport (after the final security screen). You can grab a seat and wait, but you should really go upstairs to check out the snack bars. I’ve only eaten at the Rebo one and it’s very good. Mocha for $2.50, and other hot and cold coffee drinks. I get the three-cheese sandwich for $2.50. Order, pay, sit down at a table, and they’ll bring it to you. They grill the sandwiches on a little electric grill. They sell Rebo products – coffee, peanut butter, vanilla, and sell CDs too, including folk songs and more traditional music you can’t find in the gift shops. I suspect the Rebo products are cheaper than in the shops. The Bon Voyage place has French fries, hamburgers, and hotdogs. Another place makes smoothies ($8 I think). And there’s a bar. All sell cold drinks. It’s never been very crowded, and the people are mainly foreigners, so you can sit and try to figure out where everyone is from and what they’re doing in Haiti. From the tables you can see the waiting area below and the sign announcing the flight time, so sit back and relax! Bathrooms are at the back of the main waiting area and are very clean!

Navigating the airports - Part II - departure

This continues the previous post of how to navigate the airport coming into the country.

Now that you've enjoyed Haiti you'll have a greater appreciation of the landscape as you fly the domestic plane back to the capitol, and of the workers helping you at the airports. After MAF or whatever domestic airline you're on lands in P-au-P, the personnel will put all your stuff on a cart on the tarmac and you follow it or walk ahead and pick it up at the back entrance to the domestic airport. Inside, wait for your ride near the building exit by the MAF window (in photo). Don’t go outside! It will be hot in the sun and people will keep asking you if you need a ride. And you can’t get back in through that door, you'd have to go through the main security entrance. **Make sure you have the phone number for your ride in case he isn't there (or your host forgot to call him!).** Lots of people have cell phones and you can ask someone to call.

You'll meet your ride who will drive you the few blocks to the international airport and drop you off directly near the door of your airline (see photo). Be prepared! Tip your driver now before the confusion, and have a bunch of one dollar bills (American) easily accessible. A bunch of guys In matching shirts will be waiting to help you with your bags. I tried to refuse and a Haitian chastised me and said let them, it’s their job. So one wheeled my bag to the front door – I gave him $1 (it is nice when someone else lugs your bags around). At the front door is a security point – put your bags on the conveyor belt and show your passport. Another guy in a red shirt will thrust a tote bin at you to put your small items in and he will set it on the conveyor belt (even though you could have easily done this yourself). He'll ask for $5 or $10 but I give $1 and then wish I had given the bag lugger more. You don’t have to take shoes off or anything out of your bags here. This is the last place people help you for money.

This is the American Airlines terminal: Next you stand in line in the roped off area to get your tickets at the counter (difficult to tell where the opening is to the line). You’ll get all your tickets and drop off your checked luggage. Then go to the customs booth back where those ropes start. Give them that green card you saved from entry. Then you go through security again – this time like in the US – shoes off, computer out, liquids out. (Though I have forgotten to take out liquids and no one said anything). Then you are in the area with little gift shops. Very expensive compared to the gift shops in guests houses and elsewhere - $40 for a small painting! You can buy these for less than $20 elsewhere, probably less than $10 on the street. You can buy CDs and books though, coffee, rum, vanilla, etc. Then you go up the elevator and through yet another security check point just like the previous (and again they didn’t say anything about the liquids in my bag).

You are now in the waiting area. More in the next post...

Below - pictures of the drive between airports and why you need to be driven!

(And if you need to leave via the north port Cap Haitien - here's my story)

Navigating the airport - Part I - arrival

Here’s a blog tour of the International airport in P-au-P. Fill your water bottle before you get on the plane in Miami - it's your last chance to find water until you arrive at your destination for the night in Haiti. Upon arrival at PAP, have your passport, green customs form, baggage claim ticket, and a bunch of $1 bills at hand. You debark on the second story and walk down a hallway from which you can see the old airport and cracked windows (I assume from the quake). Then you go down an escalator – have $1 ready if the little band is playing and you want a photo or just like the music. Then everyone gets on a bus to go to another building that was a warehouse or something. (Dec. 2017 update - the bus is no longer needed as immigration is now in the building where you disembark).

When you get off the bus, go inside and get in line to show the customs guy your passport – save the detached part of the green card you filled out on the plane – you'll need it when you leave the country. The customs guy really wanted to know the address of where I was staying – all I knew was the neighborhood which of course he hadn’t heard of. Then you stand near the conveyor belt to wait for your bags. Workers remove the bags off of the far side of the belt, so look for yours there if you were way behind in the line. If you’re early wait near the front of the belt to grab your bags as they enter the building. Then you go by a guy at a little desk who may or may not look at your luggage claim ticket. If not, someone outside will look at it. Be prepared for the onslaught of people who want to help you! I’ve given in and let someone carry my big bag, since he knows if you need to show someone outside your claim ticket. If your ride is not waiting for you in the mob of people right there (see photo), the bag guy will lead you down an outdoor walk way to another waiting place. When you find your ride give the bag guy $2 – 3. He might ask for $10, and won’t have change. Your ride will take you to the MAF airport or other destination.

MAF – When you are dropped off at the little domestic airport, again a bunch of men will try to help you with your bags – let one help you put your bags through security and take them to the MAF window and give him $1 or $2. The security is right at the building entrance and you don’t have to take shoes off or anything out of your bag. Anyone can go in. Bathrooms are near this door (have toilet paper with you just in case). An old woman sits by the bathroom door and will expect $1 on the way out (not sure what she does).

Check in at the MAF window. You can pay in US cash or by check, and lately they’ve wanted payment for the return trip too. Keep your receipt for the return trip. All your bags and you will be weighed. Then your stuff is piled in the corner by the scale. One time a pipe or something was dripping water in the corner so I moved my stuff to a dry place. Keep your valuables on you because then you go and sit and wait (see photo). Kind of keep an eye on your stuff. The MAF guys are nice and will make sure you don’t miss the flight. There’s no food or drinks, but you can buy bottles of syrup.

When it’s time for the flight all your stuff gets loaded onto a cart, and you’re told to go stand by the departure door (to the left of the Tortuga booth). A man will come around from the outside and unlock the door and you walk out to the MAF plane. Have your camera and whatever else you want in hand because they put everything else under or in the back of the plane to distribute the weight. The flight to Pignon is about 20 minutes and might be a little bumpy, but gives a great view of Haiti. At the MAF airstrip your hosts will pick you up. Next post – departure.

It once was a rainforest

These are largest trees I’ve seen in Haiti.

If you know what these are please leave a comment. The banyan tree (strangler fig) comes to mind for the one with all the roots hanging down, but I don't know what it is. The other was called a pistach tree, pistach is Creole for peanut. I assume trees like this grow in the national forests on the south peninsula. It’s sad to think they used to cover the country and now 99% of Haiti looks like this:

The book Collapse has a chapter about how the colonial history of Haiti lead to deforestation. According to it and other sources, the French brought slaves and left with timber, leaving Haiti largely deforested before it became independent.

Birding in November

I saw 21 species of birds in November 2011. They are listed at this posting.

At least 8 of the species I saw in the Mompremiers front wooded yard. Even the giant plain pigeon (ramye) lives there. My 40-something year old host recalled this large dove in large flocks during his childhood. They were hunted to a threatened status, and previously I would see at most one each visit. But this trip I saw and heard them everywhere! My hosts commented that they are seeing more birds this year. Perhaps my message to protect the birds is working. Whatever the reason it is good to see so many birds here.

My guide took me on 2 birding hikes. I now can distinguish the calls of the ground dove and plain pigeon. We saw all three hummingbirds (which he can distinguish by sound). We saw 2 birds new for me: the Greater Antillean Bullfinch which is native to the island; and the Cape May Warbler which comes down from Canada – a perfect example to teach about migration.

Gardens Part II - Irrigated

Saul the agriculture extension agent gave us a tour of his gardens. Huge beautiful fields of cabbages, with tomatoes and peppers along the edges. Even a small patch of rice. Banana trees and breadfruit trees. And a couple of huge trees that survived the deforestation. It was impressive.

Then we went to his garden that has irrigation canals. It was like a botanical garden. Different varieties of bananas. Coffee trees. Cocoa trees! - the orange things in the picture are the cocoa pods. I suggested that Saul open a restaurant overlooking the gardens, and give tours. It’d be a perfect place to relax and enjoy the beauty and food of Haiti.

This final photo shows corn being irrigated, right next to coconut tree. I don’t know if it is as productive as the same sized Kansas corn field, but they also aren’t trying to grow the corn just to feed cows like they do here in the US. That Saul can grow his own rice is a huge deal. The Haitian rice farmers are driven out of business by the importation of American rice (cheaper due to subsidies). Thus

people lose jobs and can’t feed themselves, and the money goes to the US.